Problems. Glycerin↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Identifying The Problem↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
I used to have very bad skin, and I kept buying more and more skin products, hoping for a miracle.
Then, in one review, I have read about how the process of elimination could be applied to identify the cosmetics component that causes the problem. I knew about the method, of course. But before that, I only blamed my body and never thought that skincare products could actually be the cause of my problems…
I have worked out that my skin does not tolerate glycerin. It is supposed to be safe if 1. it is high grade and 2. its manufacturing process (especially its purification) is rigorous. Judging by the reaction of my skin, and by how much it has improved after I have eliminated all products containing glycerin from my skin regiment, it was not!
More About Glycerin↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Glycerin is generally obtained from plant and animal sources, typically soybeans or palm. It is very cheap: the bulk price of purified glycerin in 2020 is roughly between $0.4/kg and $1.1/kg, depending on its purification grade and delivery point. One of the reasons for its cheapness is that these days, a lot of glycerin is obtained as a byproduct of biodiesel production (the technical term is “glycerol waste”). Later on, it is purified, but probably not as well as it could be.
Getting Educated. Oils And Little Else↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
From that point on, I was avoiding glycerin, started to read ingredient lists very carefully and trying to educate myself. Main discoveries I have made at that stage are below. Please note that I am not an expert, please do your own research (and the patch tests!)
Paula Begoun’s Tips↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Paula Begoun is the Cosmetics Cop, an expert in skincare and cosmetics. Her advice, ingredients dictionary, and skincare and make-up reviews are among the best you can find (but, as always, cross-check and do patch tests!)
Carrier Oils For Skincare↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Most carrier oils are food-grade (made out of edible products). Always look for cold-pressed, preferably organic, oils from reputable suppliers. The U.K.-based suppliers I have tried and was happy with (from the cheapest to the most expensive) are Essential Oils Direct (online only), Neal’s Yard Natural Remedies (online and a brick and mortar shops in the U.K., available in 6 other countries).
The following oils worked well for me (but please do the patch tests if you are interested in trying them out!)
Rose hip seed oil↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
It is the most expensive oil, from £22/100g (same as most basic facial creams!) Organic version is a bit more expensive. It is really good, contains omega oils, very nourishing, very restorative, anti-ageing, moisturising, even helps to heal scars and wounds (honestly, it does!) Allegedly the Duchess of Cambridge uses it daily. I use it on my forehead and eye area.
Jojoba oil↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Jojoba oil is great for balancing very dry and very oily skin. The price is from £13/100ml. After using it for about a week, my nose stopped shining – this was the only product I have tried that made a difference! Otherwise, it contains vitamins, it is moisturising, it is anti-ageing, and it soothes the screen. I use it on my nose and sometimes on the rest of the “lower face” (below eyes). It is very good for the hair, too (use it before washing your hair.
Tea Tree oil↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
It is purifying and antibacterial, very good if you have acne! Prices from £15/100ml. Meghan Markle has revealed that she doesn’t leave home without.
It is supposed to be diluted for skincare purposes, but it can be used neat for medical purposes. I use it undiluted for skincare purposes! As always, do the patch test first.
Coconut oil↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
It is packed with vitamins A, B, D and E and the price is unbeatable: from £4/100ml.
Garbage to Avoid↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Believing In Advertising↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Just one example: creams that claim to contain vitamins A and E usually contain a few drops of almond oil (and other ingredients are just cheap fillers) And almond oil, even cold-pressed and organic, tend to be cheaper than these creams…
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a detergent cleansing agent. It is harsh, can cause sensitizing reactions for many people. It is not detrimental to health though. You can find it in shampoos, toothpaste and cleansers. Not to be confused with Sodium LaurETH Sulfate, which is much milder.
Jar packaging↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
Jar packaging is bad! There are two reasons for it. Firstly, it’s not hygienic unless you thoroughly wash your hands before you use any of jar-packed products, every time. Secondly, increased exposure to light and oxygen is detrimental to the active ingredients. Details can be found here.
Mineral oil and grape seed oil↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
These two oils are not recommended. Mineral oil does not penetrate the skin, so no benefits. Grapeseed oil is very cheap, often not cold-pressed, very few benefits compared to other oils.
Green Shots Of Hope: Deceim↑ Back To Table Of Contents ↑
I was using my oils and was dispairing about the world ruled by skincare capitalists who put rubbish in the pretty jars and mis-sell it to the general public. Paula’s Choice, some (only some) products made by Clinique, Estée Lauder, Clarins and other expensive bands being an exception.
Deceim was launched by Brandon Truaxe, an Iranian Toronto-based guy (1978 – 2019). He was an odd person, a rebel and a genius. The company he has founded has got everything right – few effective ingredients, very informative website, A+ packaging and extremely reasonable prices (many are around £6, almost all under £20, for a very decent amount of product). The founder was actually fighting with the world and the rest of his company to keep the prices low.
And, without much publicity, only through friend-to-friend recommendations, Deceim has become very successful. So there are enough educated customers out who understand that good product is better than pretty jars and commercials with celebrities. Faith in the world restored. Or almost, would be better if the founder was still with us. Unfortunately, Brandon Truaxe died in apparent suicide months after he was forced to leave the company he founded. But his brand is here, still what he wanted it to be, so he persists…